In this season of contrasts, menswear silhouettes are divided and pull in two opposing directions. Slimline styles skim the body and contrast with wider and longer silhouettes, which are generously proportioned. Tailored jersey adds a casual note to structured styles, and construction itself is in the spotlight with contrast stitching and visible linings.

The new outerwear silhouette is dominated by unstructured shapes, and drop shoulder/rounded raglan sleeves add to the easy mood. Fabrics determine the finished look, which can be soft and shirt-like, or stiff like a protective uniform. The movement towards workwear uniforms throws the focus on pockets, reinforced panels and shirt-style collars.

The polo shirt is a key player with alternative versions for men and youth sectors. Stretch terry fabrics add an accessible retro vibe, and engineered knits upgrade the look with luxe yarns. Handknit sweaters feature subtle alterations to proportions and new points of focus. The relaxed mood expands into jersey shorts and pants in wide, easy proportions with fresh details.

There is a subtle push towards tailoring, which in the trouser/shorts sector, smartens up the look. Rather than having a formal effect, styles remain grounded with the addition of sports detailing and the casual, relaxed attitude of streetwear. Slouchy volume is balanced and controlled with pleats and a belted waist or a tapered cut and braces are revived as part of the trend for a higher waistline.

This issue provides original menswear designs and insider analysis for the shirts/woven tops sector. In it we take a look at the new stretched and expanded silhouettes, and the romantic detailing used to soften some of the contemporary lines. Hybrid designs provide shirt/jacket combinations, which are perfect for early spring drops, in lightweight and technical fabrics. Blank-fronted shirts take minimalism to the extreme and are a great direction for formal styles.